Chimney Repair - how to repair a cinder block chimney.

(Thanks to everyone who comments)


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repairing cinderblock chimney

First off I sure wish you had pictures of before. I am Female and REALLY need to repair my chimney myself due to finances. It looks BAD. Many cracks, Edges crumbling, and 2 round holes the size of a baseball. There is no question I do have to repair this and can not replace it this year . Read your article and it is the best one I have found, actually great. Should I use some type, don't know what of wire mesh on the holes? Really scared to start but have to get going on it live in Northern Maine and winter is near.

I have re-enabled the

I have re-enabled the images. I do not really have before and after pictures, but the original damage is visible in some of the photos.

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Doh, I had a bunch of pictures. I upgraded my server and it looks like the image gallery isn't working. I will get that fixed soon and ther will be lots of pictures for you to look at.

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Mine was really bad before I

Mine was really bad before I started. If I dug around I might be able to find some before pictures, but basically the water damage was so bad it was crumbling to pieces. There were cracks in several places and several of the bricks had the front basically pitted and crumbling off as well as baseball size holes. Just clean it well, and lett it dry several days in the heat and then use cement glue and portland cement or good high pressure / water resistant concrete.


Latex Base DRYLOK® Masonry Waterproofer is a low odor, water clean-up formula for waterproofing all interior, exterior, above or below grade masonry walls, cinder and concrete blocks, stucco, brick, retaining walls, basements, and foundation. No pre-mixing or pre-wetting necessary.

Ready mixed - Low-odor Formula
Withstands 10 pounds of hydrostatic pressure, greater than a wall of water 22 feet high
Breathable film - does not trap moisture in masonry
10-year Warranty
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Applies easily with brush and/or roller
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I'm in the process of sandblasting the old paint off my pumice stone concrete block '62 chimney. After crummy paint removal. DRYLOK will be going on " breathable film-does not trap moisture in masonry."

i had a contractor replace the upper 6 courses of block due to a prior crummy job and crummy paint that spalled the crummy blocks. I replaced the 6 courses with real chimney blocks and love the result.

I am sealing the whole mess as I too live in WA and the rain destroy's everything that isn't sealed properly. Moss had grown into spots and was accelerating the spalling.


I posted this note and I'll take back sandblasting as a way to clean concrete block...NOT...maybe really hard rocks or concrete you want to destroy, but pumice based chimney block NO.

Used a higher pressure 2000 psi pressure washer and that helped. Some paint is still gonna be on the brick. I got on average about 50 to 60% off. I'll use regx methods to fix the blocks that got damaged either
to my hands or the weathers. Then 2 coats of DRYLOK to fix the problem of moss, algae and spalling.

I"d like to thank regx as he's the only one I can find on the net that is a true handyperson and not a contractor shill.

Good job on your chimney.! I hope mine turns out the same with your advice. Thank you. JK

Thanks, so far it has been

Thanks, so far it has been holding up very well. Hope yours goes as well and last a very long time.


If you use dry-lock, you will seal water in that can't escape and you will be in the same position I am...starting over.

Yes, dry lock

Of course you must make sure that the whole thing is dry before applying drylock. You also want to make sure that it is capped good and that water can't seep in from the top.
You should really make sure that everything is dry before starting the project. Start the project after a week or so of good weather and keep everything covered while you are working on it. Covering the cement will help it cure. The longer the curing time the better. As the cement cures it will help leach out any trapped in moisture in the cinder block. While everything is dry seal it and seal it good.
My chimney weathered the winter like a champ and looks as good as the day I finished. As long as most of your work holds up you should be able to simply patch any bad areas. So far I haven't had to patch anything though.

If you do not seal it, any moisture that gets in will freeze, expand and ruin the job.

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